An area that certainly deserves further research is the casemaker’s hallmarks within these timepieces.
One of the recurring points brought up in discussing coin watches is the incredible construction and craftsmanship that these timepieces possess. It would be easy to understand that some of these, over the years, would have been bought and sold as simply coins by the untrained eye.” When describing his impression upon close observation of the timepiece, Bedwell stated “The perlage featured on the interior caseback was certainly some of the finest I’ve encountered.” The fact that upon initially obtaining it it took me a while to actually find the trigger set so beautifully in the coin edging was also testament to the quality of the workmanship. In addition, this is an early use of the coin motif for Bulgari that is so important to its jewelry today. During World War II the Bulgari family took in and helped Jewish women during those years and the family is listed among The Righteous Among the Nations in Israel for their effort to help protect the Jewish women. The watch was imported to Italy only months before the Italian government instituted a ban on gold jewelry imports.
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As far as Wind and Bedwell know, it is the only known Audemars Piguet coin watch, or any coin watch from the 1940s or earlier, to have a Bulgari retail signature on the dial. In 2019, Wind and Alan Bedwell of Foundwell sold to Bulgari a rare Audemars Piguet retailed by Bulgari coin watch made in 1941 from an 1863 Napoleon III French 100 franc coin for the company's museum. Because of the limited comprehensive cataloging of coin watches, we hope this compilation will serve as a resource for collectors and further discussion of coin watches.
What follows is a selection of these coin watches from Patek Philippe that have appeared at auctions and from private dealers.
US TWENTY DOLLAR COIN WATCH SERIES
The reference 802 is part of a small series of gold coin watches from Patek with the reference numbers 800 to 809, which use the U.S $5 (ref. According to Collectability, there are over 15 different Patek Philippe coin watch references, the most common being the reference 802. So it is not in the least bit surprising to learn that Patek had been quite active in coin watches as well. You name it, chances are they’ve created it. Their offerings range from solar timepieces, chiming watches, jump hours, digital wristwatches, hell, even ink chronographs. Patek Philippe is recognized for being one of the most diversified watchmakers in the world. While earlier timepieces featuring a coin date further back to the late 19th century, manufacturers would go on to utilize Vergely’s process as the standard.Ī collage of coin watch makers Patek Philippe These are distinguished by the case form being entirely constructed through the two separate coins, a technique the head watchmaker of European Watch and Clock Company Paris is credited with perfecting. However, records in the brand’s literature indicate there were much earlier examples via a process introduced by Joseph Vergely.
According to Sotheby's, Cartier began producing coin watches in 1929. Several manufacturers adopted the coin form timepiece during the 1920s, yet specific styles and makers warrant context. Scattered across archived auction lot results, printed within the bindings of old books collecting dust, and occasionally in the pockets of some dealers who have gone off the deep end into obsession, there are examples in desperate need of discussion. The history of coin watches is an elusive tale.
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